Styling the Laura Ashley x Kentucky Derby Collection

For our latest collaboration with Laura Ashley, we created a limited edition of ties, bow ties, suspenders, and more for the Kentucky Derby, which we photographed on John’s Island, South Carolina.

Held every May at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky, since 1875, the Derby has remained one of the most iconic horse races in the world, often referred to as “The Run for the Roses.” Today, the Derby is a major cultural event, attracting celebrities, royals, and even U.S. presidents. It’s a blend of horse racing, fashion, and festivity, with hats, mint juleps, and a sense of elegance filling the air.

“It’s such an iconic event, especially in the South, and while we’re a Midwest brand, I wanted to make sure we were offering something our customers could wear comfortably,” says Onyx Martinez, our stylist. He adds, “I didn’t want it to feel like cosplay or too over-the-top — I wanted it to be approachable.”

“There’s something for everyone, from a bold, heightened floral to a more understated piece,” Onyx said. “It’s designed to be inclusive, offering something for every style and personality.”

We caught up with Onyx to take a deeper dive into how to approach an outfit for race day, how to be stylish without looking too eccentric, and why a linen suit will save you under 90-degree shade.

SHOP THE COLLECTION

The Tie Bar: With our ongoing Laura Ashley collaboration, what was your approach to styling the latest Kentucky Derby accessory collection?

Onyx Martinez: The collection is obviously mostly ties, but we also included a few bandana-style scarves, some small accessories — like metal pieces — and an overall approach to the Derby.

That’s why I immediately looked into shirting. I wanted to create custom shirting for the collection, so I ended up sourcing with our made-to-measure specialist in Chicago, Bayani. We landed on a few options, including club-collar shirts in a classic banker style. We did blue and pink striped shirting with a penny collar, which I thought was a great nod to the event’s roots — especially since it has strong ties to the UK. It was a way to incorporate some English heritage while still making the collection feel distinct from our other offerings.

At the same time, I wanted these pieces to integrate seamlessly with what we already have, so I styled them with our new linen suits. We paired the ties with our chocolate brown linen suit and our double-breasted oat linen suit to create a full look that feels polished but not overwhelming. Since a lot of the ties feature bold, floral patterns — some with white backgrounds, which can sometimes feel intimidating — I wanted to show how they can still work effortlessly with a white shirt.

For example, with our pink floral ties, I styled them with the chocolate brown suit to keep things grounded and neutral. That way, the tie doesn’t completely steal focus, but the look still feels intentional and cohesive.

For the custom shirts, I also added convertible cuffs, giving the wearer the option to go with cufflinks or not — whatever suits their style. We even created some Derby-inspired horse racing cufflinks as part of the collection, little details that give a nod to that Southern dandy aesthetic without going too far for our customers.

TTB: What are the key elements of a classic Kentucky Derby outfit?

OM: I think it’s important to consider the season. Since it’s May, the weather leans toward summer, so incorporating fabrics like cotton and linen into your outfit helps set the tone. That way, your look aligns with the season and feels appropriate. Linen, in particular, is a great choice.

TTB: The Derby is known for its bold fashion. How can you stand out while still keeping your look traditional?

OM: I made some conscious decisions with footwear, as well. Instead of going for the average penny loafer that every guy has, I opted for a tassel loafer — it gives the look a bit of a kick and adds a touch of dandy flair.

Little details like that make a huge difference. Even the way you fold a pocket square — you don’t have to go with a standard square fold; you could try a floral fold or something a bit more eccentric.

For one of my looks with a scarf, I kept it simple: a white T-shirt, linen trousers, sandals, and a scarf. But then I added a brown straw fedora to give the outfit a little extra character.

TTB: Given the warm weather, how important is it to choose breathable fabrics like linen and seersucker to stay cool and stylish?

OM: It’s incredibly important because it’s 90 degrees in the shade, and you want to stay comfortable. The biggest thing is our suits — they’re unconstructed, meaning there’s no lining, which really helps with breathability. Opting for a loafer instead of a traditional dress shoe also makes a difference, allowing you to go sockless for extra comfort. That helps a ton.

TTB: What’s the best way to style a linen suit for the Derby?

OM: Don’t treat it like your average suit. If you’re working with a classic navy linen suit — or even a navy seersucker, like the one we included in the collection — don’t style it like a traditional corporate getup. Instead, opt for a linen-silk blend tie to bridge the gap and soften the look.

A high-sheen silk tie against a textured seersucker suit can feel jarring, so it’s all about creating harmony in textures. If your suit has texture, your tie should too — and vice versa.

TTB: Are pastels a must, or can I opt for darker or more neutral tones?

OM: You don’t need to wear overly bold colors like aqua or hyper pink. Instead, stick to contemporary tones and incorporate them consistently throughout your outfit to create a cohesive look. For instance, when I styled a pink floral tie, I paired it with a pink-striped shirt and a chocolate brown suit. The combination felt bright and elevated without relying on a single standout piece.

TTB: How do I accessorize a Derby outfit without going overboard?

OM: In terms of accessories, I always try to stick to a rule — though rules are meant to be broken. But, you know, two small accessories in a fit usually strike a nice balance. If I wore a tie bar, I’d skip the pocket square, and vice versa. If I didn’t wear a tie bar, I’d make sure to add cufflinks. It’s about finding that sweet spot. You don’t need a full accessory build-out in every fit. Keeping it minimal lets each piece speak for itself.

SHOP LAURA ASHLEY X KENTUCKY DERBY