Necktie Fabric 101

Neckties can be the punctuation mark of a great outfit — think exclamation point, not awkward semicolon — but they should never be an afterthought, especially when it comes to fabric. The material you choose is what ties (pun intended) your entire fit together. Just like with shirts, jeans, and jackets, knowing how a fabric wears and feels is essential.

“Natural fibers tend to have a softer, more luxurious hand feel that instantly creates a more elegant, fluid drape,” says Francesca McGraw, our Head of Merchandising. Linen and cotton ties, she explains, are airy with a crisper, drier touch, while silk “has this smooth, supple, natural sheen.” Wool, she adds, “is warmer, with a soft, cozy touch. I like it as a tie fabric because when you’re tying it, it has this cool, structured look thanks to the bulk and warmth of the material.”

One fabric to avoid, whether for neckwear or clothing, is polyester. It’s stiff, not breathable, and according to McGraw, “when you tie it, it can appear awkward: big, bulky, and lacking the fluid, graceful feel that natural fibers have.” In short, polyester is the equivalent of wearing a fake mustache to a black-tie event.

To give us a crash course in “Fabric 101: Necktie Edition,” Francesca shared why natural fibers age better than polyester, why the subtle details in a hand-rolled tie matter, and her top tips for cleaning your ties so maybe, just maybe, they’ll be worthy of becoming an heirloom one day.

The Tie Bar: How do natural materials like silk, wool, cotton, and linen hold up over time compared to polyester?

FM: I’d say natural materials tend to age more gracefully, if you will, than polyester, as long as they’re properly cared for. Silk and wool, in particular, are really durable materials. They retain their shape nicely and maintain their color richness over time. However, silk and wool are more sensitive to abrasion, so it’s super important to care for them properly.

Cotton and linen are more prone to wrinkling but in my opinion, that gives them character as they age — an added value, if you ask me. 

Polyester, on the other hand, is more resistant to wrinkles and stains, but it loses its luster over time, pills more easily, and doesn’t breathe as well as natural fibers. It’s one of those materials you might buy, wear a couple of times, and then feel ready to toss. Plus, it’s just not as environmentally sustainable.

TTB: How does the feel and drape of these fabrics differ from polyester?

FM: I feel like you can really see and feel the difference between a natural fiber and polyester. Natural fibers tend to have a softer, more luxurious hand feel that instantly creates a more elegant, fluid drape.

Silk, for example, has this smooth, supple, natural sheen. Wool, on the other hand, is warmer, with a soft, cozy touch. Linen and cotton are more airy fabrics, with a crisper, drier hand feel that gives them a relaxed, casual drape.

By comparison, polyester can feel stiff — like it’s trying too hard to imitate silk — especially in ties. The drape looks less refined, and when you tie it, it can appear awkward: big, bulky, and lacking the fluid, graceful feel that natural fibers have.

TTB: Do natural-fiber ties tend to have a matte finish, or do they carry a subtle sheen like polyester?

FM: I’d say that depends on the fiber. Silk, for example, naturally has a softer, elegant sheen. Polyester also has a sheen, but it’s more of an over-the-top, reflective shine that can make it look cheap and less refined than silk. 

Fibers like wool, cotton, and linen tend to be more matte because they have a textured finish. That finish can either make them feel more casual or play into the seasonality of the fabric. For instance, wool is mostly associated with fall and winter, whereas cotton or linen feels more appropriate for spring and summer.

TTB: Would you say non-polyester ties lean more formal or casual, or does it depend on the fabric and finish?

FM: I think it depends on both the fiber and the finish. So, with a silk tie — especially if you’re looking at a classic pattern or a twill — I’d say that’s definitely more formal. The soft sheen of silk just inherently looks more formal, whereas linen and cotton, with their airy texture, naturally lean more casual.

At The Tie Bar, we produce a lot of silk-blend ties — silk-linen, silk-wool — and I think it’s cool how those blends can completely change the look of the tie. Adding a blend can decrease the sheen, add texture, or change the weight, all of which alter the final impression. Those elements can push a tie toward either a more formal or more casual vibe.

Beyond fiber and finish, texture is another major factor. For example, in May, we launched 100% silk grenadine ties. Even though they’re pure silk, the open-weave texture — almost like a knit tie — perfectly blends casual and formal. To me, that makes them the most versatile tie you can own. They can truly do it all, depending on how you choose to dress them up or down.

TTB: Are our ties hand-rolled or machine-finished? Could you explain the difference and why it matters in terms of quality or appearance?

FM: A lot of people know this, but we've been producing hand-rolled pocket squares since our very first days. I feel like people forget that our pocket squares are hand-rolled, but it's really only in the last two years that we've expanded our assortment to include a more premium line, which now includes hand-rolled ties as well. For that, we really wanted to make sure we did it right. So, we turned to the experts and partnered with a small manufacturer in Italy, out of Lake Como, specifically because Como has a long history of silk production and is one of the world’s hubs for tie manufacturing.

For context, a hand-rolled finish means that the edges of a tie are carefully rolled and sewn by hand, as the name suggests, rather than stitched by a machine. This typically results in a softer, more artisanal look, with a slight dimension on the actual roll. You get a natural drape that you just don’t get with a machine, which tends to produce a flat, uniform finish. While machine finishing is more cost-effective, it lacks the elevated detail and refinement that hand-rolling brings. In my opinion, hand-rolled edges are really the mark of craftsmanship — a super subtle detail, but one that makes a meaningful difference and reflects the level of care and skill involved.

Our team, including Austin and Michelle, recently visited one of our factory sites in Long Island City, and it was eye-opening to see just how manual and meticulous the entire process is. Ties are so small that people might assume it's a quick, simple step, but the amount of work that goes into each one — from cutting and pressing to folding and stitching — is really remarkable.

So, all that to say: while the hand-rolled detail might seem subtle at first glance, up close it truly represents the higher standard of quality that we strive for.

TTB: You mentioned that over the past two years, you’ve moved your neckties in a more premium direction. Was that shift driven by customer demand for higher-end products, or was it more of an internal decision to elevate the collection?

FM: Both. We always want to ensure an affordable opening price point that our customers can access. But because we have the know-how and expertise to create higher-end, premium pieces, we were able to find partners in Italy and Long Island City. 
We felt it was really important to offer a premium, higher-quality tie for customers who might want something a little more special — a keepsake that we don’t currently offer.

TTB: What’s the best way to clean and maintain a natural-fiber tie to ensure it lasts?

FM: I’d say always untie the knot as gently as possible after wearing it, and then store the tie either loosely rolled in a tie case. If you don’t have a tie case, you can hang it on a hanger. 

Basically, you just want to avoid creases and store it away from sunlight in a dry location. 
For spot treatments or minor stains, I’d recommend just spot cleaning with a damp cloth — avoid twisting or wringing the fabric. For larger stains, a dry cleaner is your best bet. And whenever possible, I’d always advise steaming over-ironing.