Fall Wedding Tie Guide

We’ve got just over a month of summer left before the autumnal breeze of September comes rushing in, ushering cooler days, darker nights, and the sudden urge to order hot drinks you didn’t really miss. Outdoor weddings will start dwindling (bonus points if you’re brave enough to host one after September), but love will still be in the air. So if you’ve read your wedding invitation carefully — and I mean really read it — you’ve probably already swapped your linen and seersucker suits for something heftier, like wool or tweed.

While the suit is unquestionably the cornerstone of wedding attire, the right accessory — namely, a necktie — can take your look from nice to someone asking where you got that. Think silk, wool, flannel: the kinds of textures and tones that bring just the right amount of muted elegance and seasonal moodiness.

“I’m looking at these beautiful tweed wool ties,” says our Stylist Onyx Martinez. He’s already nailed down the fabrics he’ll be wearing this fall, but when it comes to width, he’s got a clear opinion: “I want to do the three-inch and three-and-a-quarter widths.” According to Martinez, a slightly wider tie than you’re used to can be surprisingly flattering. “I think it’s going to help you,” he says. Help you look sharper, that is, not necessarily help you on the dance floor.

As our resident style sage Onyx knows his stuff. So we’ve tapped him for advice on the ties to wear this fall, how to match them to the time of day, coordinate with your date or wedding party, and, most importantly, which tie he considers essential when the RSVP reads “Yes — plus one.”

TTB: Does the time of day matter in what tie to wear?

Onyx Martinez: I’m going to say no. I think you dress for the occasion and the weather, but not for the time of day. The same thing goes for wearing a tuxedo at a morning wedding versus an evening wedding. It all falls under the same category. So no, I wouldn’t necessarily darken your color palette just because it’s the evening.

TTB: Does the venue matter? Indoors or outdoors, formal or casual?

OM: I mean, absolutely, you know, I think we have to take into account that some people run a little hot, some people run a little cold. And of course, the weather has a big impact on that. If you’re someone who, in the fall, starts to feel a little chilly, maybe your usual linen or hopsack suit isn’t the move. You might need something that’s 100% wool, tweed, or flannel to help provide that barrier — because nothing’s worse than seeing a guy in a great suit wearing a puffer jacket over it just because it’s cold. Or worse, a jacket that doesn’t fit over a suit, or shouldn’t be worn with it at all, but he’s freezing, so he throws it on anyway.

That’s why I think it’s important to consider the material of your suit. And it’s always nice to have that coordinate with your tie. So if you’re wearing a textured suit or a heavier set, match that feel with your neckwear.

TTB: What are some tie options with a patterned or solid shirt?

OM: I think The Tie Bar, in general, does beautiful Italian ties. We’re always doing these gorgeous tweed materials, spun silk, and heavy wools. I think when you take a simple texture like that, it elevates any regular white dress shirt. You really can’t go wrong with any of our Italian tie collection or Barberis ties, in that respect.

In regard to pattern-on-pattern, here at Tie Bar, we’re all for it. It’s okay to mix patterns — just, as a style beginner, don’t match identical or overly similar patterns, and then you’re in the clear.

TTB: Thoughts on coordinating with your date or the wedding party?

OM: I think always, always read your invitation carefully. First and foremost, if it says it’s black tie, come black tie. Don’t just show up however you want. The day is not about you; it’s about the bride and groom.

So first off, yes, read your invitation carefully.

Secondly, when it comes to coordination, I think there’s a difference between matching and coordinating. If your date is wearing a green dress, it doesn’t mean you have to have the perfect green tie to match. Instead, find a floral tie that has maybe a slight green petal in it, or keep it neutral with a gray tie and add an accent with a pocket square. I think you’ll be better off in that sense. It won’t feel like prom.

TTB: Any advice on making a statement or keeping things classic?

OM: I think when it comes to weddings, one of the biggest things people ask is, “Oh, what am I going to wear?” And I try to steer people away from overthinking — or being peacocky — at the same time. Because, again, it’s not about you. So immediately, just pay attention to what season it is. Obviously, this is fall, so make sure you’re using materials correctly. Wool, flannel, tweed, etc.

Secondly, don’t wear your office suit or office tie to that wedding. I think you can just grab the colors you like, in fall-appropriate materials, and you’re good. And you don’t have to, like I think a lot of people do in fall, dive headfirst into jewel tones thinking, “I have to wear burnt orange” or “I have to wear hyper green” to feel in-season. You don’t have to do that. Just make sure you’re careful with your materials, and you’re good.

TTB: Would a bow tie be appropriate, or even fun for this occasion?

OM: A bow tie is appropriate. Obviously, it’s mostly going to be a solid satin or something similar. But, you know, a bow tie in something like our Italian textured wool can feel casual. So I’d say absolutely, you can wear a bow tie to a wedding, even if you’re a guest — just make sure you’re not overdressing the groom.

TTB: Should you lean toward a seasonal fabric like wool, tweed, or knit?

OM: Just keep an eye on how things are woven, texture-wise. Just because it’s silk doesn’t mean it has to be strictly for spring or summer. In reality, it’s less about knowing, “Is it this material? Is it that material?” and more about looking at the texture. Does it have that kind of grayness to it — that kind of fall feel we’re all reminded of.

TTB: What colors feel most “fall” but still complement your outfit?

OM: Obviously, I wouldn’t go all the way toward the traditional answer people always give — those jewel tones — but just more muted. Pretty much everything should have a slight grayish underlying tone to it, the way the weather gets a little darker. I think that’s where your wardrobe naturally leans. So really, it’s about making sure nothing is too hyper-colorful or overly saturated.

TTB: Should you plan to wear a pocket square or tie bar as well? 

OM: I think what I always tend to do for beginners is the “two rule.” If you have two accessories, keep it at that. Don’t push it into a third. So if you’re wearing a tie, do a tie bar or a pocket square, but you don’t need the whole trifecta, the full Macy’s box set, you know? I think you can keep it to two.

As you progress in this world and refine your style, you can obviously do three, you just have to be smart about how you’re finishing the look. So if you did three — say, an Italian wool tie and a paisley bandana pocket square — don’t pair it with a shiny tie bar. Keep everything in that muted lane. Go for brass, or something a little more rugged and woodsy, to match the rest. That way, it doesn’t feel like you’re doing too much.

TTB: What would be your go-to tie for a fall wedding?

OM: Easy answer. Charcoal Tweed. I think you can't go wrong with any gray tweed tie. You know, I think gray can be the most sophisticated colorway you can put on, and it's appropriate for almost any occasion. So you can't go wrong.

FALL STYLE GUIDE